Aphelinus abdominalis — Parasitic Wasp for Foxglove & Potato Aphid Control
How to Say It: af-eh-LY-nus ab-dom-in-AL-is
Parasitizes aphids and feeds on them too, for two ways to stop an infestation.
Foxglove and potato aphids are some of the hardest aphids to shake once they settle in, and Aphelinus abdominalis is built for them. Each order arrives as ready-to-emerge aphid mummies: aphids already parasitized by A. abdominalis, with adult wasps about to come out and start working on your plants.
What They Are
A. abdominalis is a tiny parasitoid wasp that controls aphids two ways, by parasitism and active feeding, while Aphidius colemani and Aphidius ervi rely on parasitism alone. Adults are long-lived and lay eggs over several weeks. They tend to walk over plants rather than fly off, so they stay close to where you release them.
Aphid Targets
Primary:
These larger aphids are common problems in greenhouses and indoor gardens.
- Foxglove aphid (also called the glasshouse potato aphid)
- Potato aphid
Also controls:
- Pea aphid
- Green peach aphid
- Cotton/melon aphid
- Black bean aphid
- Brown citrus aphid
- Green apple aphid
How It Works
A. abdominalis is strongest on large aphids, A. colemani prefers small ones for egg-laying, and A. ervi adds more coverage on large ones.
Parasitism: Females lay a single egg inside an aphid nymph, the aphid’s young, still-growing stage. The larva feeds inside its host and turns it into a hard black mummy, and a new adult wasp emerges to continue the cycle.
Host feeding: Females also pierce aphid nymphs and feed on them directly for protein, killing them without laying an egg. On smaller aphid species they rely on this more than on parasitism, so you may see fewer mummies than aphids killed.
When to Use
A. abdominalis works best released early, as a preventive or at the first sign of aphids. Starting early gives each generation time to build before colonies explode. It’s slower to establish than Aphidius species, so for an aphid population that’s already heavy, pair it with a fast-acting predator like green lacewings to knock numbers down while the wasps settle in.
Because it doesn’t go dormant as days shorten, it’s also a strong choice for fall and winter aphid control in heated greenhouses and indoor gardens.
| Aphid Pressure | Release Rates | Frequency |
| Preventative or light | 1 per 10 sq. ft. | Weekly, 2–3 releases |
| Moderate | 2–4 per 10 sq. ft. | Weekly, 2–3 releases |
| Heavy or hot spots | 5–10 per 10 sq. ft. | Weekly, 2–3 releases |
NOTE: Control is typically achieved once about 80% of the aphids are parasitized.
These are general starting points — actual application should be adjusted based on pest pressure/species, plant type, and infestation severity.
Temperature & Humidity Range
Temperature: Active from 50°F to 95°F. For the best aphid control and reproduction, keep temperatures consistently between 68°F and 86°F. It handles heat better than Aphidius species.
Humidity: Performs best with 60–80% relative humidity.
How to Release
- Release right next to or on the aphid colonies you want to control.
- Sprinkle the mummies gently onto the leaves of infested plants, not onto the soil.
- Lay the open container on its side at the release spot for 24 hours so any wasps still inside can find their way out.
- For the next few days, keep the release spot dry and leave the mummies where you put them.
- Take down yellow sticky traps for a few days after each release.
Signs It’s Working
About two weeks after your first release, look for black, leathery aphid mummies on the leaves. They’re slimmer and less puffed-up than the gold or tan mummies Aphidius species leave behind. A small exit hole at the back of a mummy means a new adult has already emerged.
Pairing for Mixed Aphid Problems
Many aphid problems involve more than one species of natural predator.
- Pair it with A. colemani or A. ervi available individually or in the Aphid Double Mix, or get all three species together in the Aphid Triple Mix.
- Aphidoletes aphidimyza, a predatory gall midge, is another option for clearing dense colonies. Release on the most crowded aphid colonies and let the wasps work through the rest of your plants.
Safe, Sustainable Pest Management
- 100% natural biological control agent
- Safe to use around people and pets; these wasps target aphids only
- Safe for vegetables, fruit, and other edible crops
- Fits into any integrated pest management (IPM) program
- No protective gear needed
Storage & Handling
Release your order as soon as it arrives. If you need to wait, keep the unopened bottle lying on its side in a cool, dark place at 47–50°F (not in a refrigerator) for no more than 1–2 days. Keep it out of direct sunlight, both in storage and at the release site.
FAQs
Will these wasps sting me, my kids, or my pets?
No. They’re tiny, about the size of a gnat, and only go after aphids.
Can I use neem oil or insecticidal soap with A. abdominalis?
Avoid spraying either one on plants where you’ve released the wasps, since sprays can kill the adults and harm the developing wasps inside the mummies. If you’ve used a long-lasting broad-spectrum insecticide, wait at least four weeks before releasing.
Why am I seeing fewer aphid mummies than I expected?
Females kill many aphids by feeding on them instead of laying eggs in them, especially on smaller aphid species. Those aphids simply disappear rather than turning into mummies, so a falling aphid count is the best sign it’s working.
How is A. abdominalis different from Aphidius colemani and Aphidius ervi?
All three are aphid parasitoids, but A. abdominalis also kills aphids by host feeding, handles heat better, and stays close to where you release it. Aphidius species fly more and leave gold or tan mummies; A. abdominalis leaves black ones.
I don’t know which aphid I have. Which product should I buy?
The Aphid Triple Mix combines A. abdominalis, A. colemani, and A. ervi, so it covers small and large aphids without needing to identify the species.