Hippodamia convergens
How to Say It: hip-oh-DAY-mee-uh kun-VER-jenz
Native ladybugs are general predators effective for aphid control.
If you are struggling with aphids, mealybugs, or other soft-bodied pests taking over your garden, our pre-fed ladybugs are a natural, chemical-free way to bring the problem under control. Hippodamia convergens, commonly called the convergent lady beetle, is a North American native predator best known for its appetite for aphids and other soft-bodied pests.
Ladybugs are generalist predators that feed primarily on aphids but will also consume a variety of other small insects, insect eggs, larvae, and mites. When pest populations are low, adult ladybugs will supplement their diet with pollen and nectar from flowers. Every batch is fed and watered before it ships, so your ladybugs are ready to settle in and start hunting upon release. They are a great option for gardeners moving toward more sustainable pest control.
What Ladybugs Target
Primary Target
- Aphids — including green peach aphid, melon aphid, cotton aphid, pea aphid, potato aphid, corn leaf aphid, rose aphid, and other common aphids
Secondary Targets
May provide supplemental control, particularly when prey is readily available.
- Psyllids — including potato psyllid
- Whitefly eggs — including sweetpotato whitefly and greenhouse whitefly
- Mealybugs and Scale insects — crawler stage
- Mites — including some spider mites
- Asparagus beetle eggs and young larvae
- Insect eggs — including some moth and beetle eggs
- Very young caterpillars and other small insect larvae
Occasional / Supplemental Prey
H. convergens may consume early stages of these when encountered, especially when aphids are limited.
- Leafhoppers
- Thrips
- Small caterpillars and armyworm larvae
- Beetle larvae
- Weevil larvae
- Other small, soft-bodied insects
What Ladybugs Are
Native ladybugs have the classic dome-shaped body of the Coccinellidae family, typically 5–8mm long, with red-to-orange wing covers and black spots, though spot count and color vary more than people expect. Some individuals carry a dozen spots, others just a few, and some have no spots at all. Spot pattern alone isn't a reliable way to identify a beneficial lady beetle versus a look-alike. The native convergent lady beetle has two thin white lines on its head that “converge” toward the center of the shield-like plate behind the head.
How Ladybugs Work
Adult ladybugs hone in on aphid colonies where they feed and lay eggs under the right conditions. The larvae are the most voracious feeding stage and are responsible for most of the aphid suppression. Adults can live for weeks to months given adequate food and water, extending aphid control. Interestingly, when threatened, ladybugs release a bitter-tasting, foul-smelling compound from their leg joints that deters birds and other predators from eating them.
Life Cycle & Identification
The full life cycle from egg, larva, pupa, to adult takes roughly 2–3 weeks under good conditions. Ladybug larvae look nothing like the adults. They're elongated, spiny, and often gray or black with orange markings, which surprises a lot of first-time gardeners expecting a mini version of the dome-shaped adult. After pupation, adult beetles continue feeding for several weeks and can lay eggs among aphid colonies.
When to Use Ladybugs
Ladybugs work well both preventively and reactively:
- Preventively: Release when aphids are beginning to appear, rather than waiting for a severe infestation.
- Reactively: Release at the first sign of an active infestation to knock populations back quickly.
Application Rates
These are general starting points. Actual rates should be adjusted based on pest pressure/species, plant type, and infestation severity.
| Infestation Level | Frequency |
| Preventative/Light | 1 ladybug per sq. ft., monthly |
| Moderate | 1 ladybug per sq. ft., bi-weekly, 2-3 times |
| Heavy | 1 ladybug per sq. ft., weekly, 2-4 times |
Temperature Range
Best temperature: 62-88°F
Minimum activity: ~55°F
Application Methods
- Water before release. Lightly water the planting area beforehand to provide moisture and improve release conditions. Avoid heavy overhead watering immediately after release.
- Release at dusk or after dark. Ladybugs are less likely to fly away in low light, giving them time to settle in and start foraging overnight.
- Release near active pests. Place ladybugs directly at the base of affected plants or on leaves where aphids are visible, rather than scattering them broadly.
- Release in small batches across the area rather than dumping the whole container in one spot, so coverage is even.
Pairing and Compatibility
Works well alongside other natural predators to provide more complete aphid control across the growing area
- Parasitoid wasps like A. colemani, A. ervi, and A. abdominalis, can help control aphids by laying eggs inside the aphid and turning them into mummies from which their offspring will hatch.
- Green lacewing larvae (Chrysoperla rufilabris) are referred to as "aphid lions" and are highly mobile generalist predators that attack aphids and other soft-bodied prey.
Safe, Sustainable Pest Management
- 100% natural — no chemicals or synthetic pesticides
- Safe around people, pets, and edible crops
- Compatible with IPM (Integrated Pest Management) programs
- No protective equipment required
Storage
If you can't release your ladybugs immediately, keep the container refrigerated (35–45°F) in a dark spot until you're ready. Refrigeration slows them down and keeps them calm, but don't store them longer than a few days. The sooner you release them, the better their condition.
Never leave the container in direct sun or a hot car.
Pro-Tips
- Manage ants before releasing ladybugs. Ants often protect aphids because they feed on honeydew. Reducing ant activity around aphid colonies can make it easier for ladybugs and other beneficials to reach the aphids.
- Water or mist the plant foliage right before release. Ladybugs will drink first, which helps them settle rather than fly off.
- Avoid releasing after applying any pesticide, including many "natural" ones. Check compatibility first.
- Use Beneficial Insect Netting to keep ladybugs from flying away.
- Pair ladybugs with an attractant, like a Good Bug Diet, when pest levels are low, to help keep them in the area until aphids build up.
FAQs
Do ants affect how ladybugs will work for aphid control?
Yes. Ants protect aphid colonies to farm the sweet substance called honeydew from the aphids. Ants will relocate aphid colonies, or attack adult ladybugs and larvae to drive them away. It’s best to treat the area for ants, before releasing beneficial predators for aphid pest control.
Will neem oil or insecticidal soap hurt or kill my ladybugs?
Yes. Neem oil or insecticidal soaps can harm ladybugs, especially larvae, if applied directly or while ladybugs are actively foraging on treated leaves. It's best to apply it several days before or after releasing ladybugs to avoid direct contact.
What's the difference between a ladybug, a ladybird, and a lady beetle?
Nothing biologically. They're all common names for the same family of beetles (Coccinellidae). "Ladybird" is more common in British English, "lady beetle" is the more scientifically neutral term entomologists tend to use, and "ladybug" is the everyday American term. Our Hippodamia convergens ladybugs go by all three.
Where can I buy ladybugs for my garden?
Right here — pre-fed ladybugs ship directly to your door in quantities sized for anything from a small backyard bed to a larger garden or greenhouse.
Are ladybugs actually native to the U.S.?
Yes. Hippodamia convergens is native to North America and can be found across most of the United States.
Will ladybugs get rid of whiteflies?
Ladybugs will feed on whitefly eggs and early-instar nymphs, but they're not a whitefly specialist the way they are with aphids. For a heavy, established whitefly infestation, pairing ladybugs with a whitefly-focused predator or parasitoid wasp will get you faster results than ladybugs alone.
Why did my ladybugs fly away?
Adult H. convergens are naturally mobile. If aphid populations are low, temperatures are unfavorable, or the area lacks suitable shelter and moisture, released adults may disperse. For best results, release near active pest populations and provide plants with adequate moisture and shelter.